Introduction to the Culinary Arts at the Workhouse: Weeks 3 & 4 but not 5

I’m behind on this. I always get behind on things like this.

I am still enjoying the class, though. Here are three weeks worth of updates. Our final session is tomorrow.

Week 3: Soups & Stews

I’ll say this was maybe the lightest on learning new things, but definitely built on the previous classes. Also, the food was good, which makes up for the light learning

We made:

  • Pumpkin Bisque
  • Beef and Guinness Pie
  • Zuppa Toscana
  • Chicken & Dumplings

I feel like we also made a dessert– but I’ve lot track of it.

Week 4

It never occurred to me that there might be a middle ground when it comes to eating snails. I expected either to be disgusted or enthralled. Instead? it was OK. The next time I see escargot on a menu, I might try it again.  I have trouble imagining a situation where I’d want to cook it at home.

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The emphasis of the class in general was pasta (which we made in class), and Italian food more generally:

  • Bruschetta with Tomato and Basil
  • Roasted Garlic Bread
  • Crab Cakes
  • Chicken-stuffed ravioli with cream and butter sauce
  • Manicotti with cheese filling.
  • Zabaglione

The bulk of my time was spent on the marinara for the manicotti (which was exactly the kind of experience I’d hoped to get out of this class: a chance to work on basic preparations, with an expert at hand to point me in the right direction), and the zabaglione.  The marinara turned out good, but I was damn proud of the zabaglione. Give me some yolks, sugar, and wine, and I’ll make you a desert. Well, a desert sauce at least.

That was rapturous.

Week 5

I was (sadly) not able to make class. The chef saved me a copy of the handout, at least– if there’s anything interesting, I’ll report it here. That’s kinda what I do here.

Butternut Squash Soup

My fiancé is generally polite about what I produce in the kitchen. If she likes it, she’ll say “you can make that again”. If it’s something truly offensive (like the ultra-sour vinaigrette I made a few weeks ago. Big mistake: not tasting the stuff before I served it. It could have been fixed) she’ll ask “do I have to eat this?”. Between those two extremes, she’ll eat and express gratitude that I made dinner.

Last night, I got a rare “you can make that again” on a dish that was wholly improvisational, a soup made with baked butternut squash.

She’s right, I should make that again.

Well, crap. How do I make that again?

I need to start writing stuff down. If I want to reproduce something, or improve on it, I need to know what I did. There’s nothing earth-shattering here, this basically follows the accepted template of a creamy vegetable soup. It’s still worth keeping track of.

So, consider this a proto-recipe.

ingredients

  • 1 whole butternut squash, cut in half, baked until… Mushy. Scoop the squash mush into a bowl and discard the skin
  • 1 whole onion, chopped
  • 2 carrots
  • olive oil
  • 2 tbsp butter or substitute
  • milk (2 cups?)
  • white wine (1 half cup?)
  • balsamic vinegar to taste
  • powdered ginger to taste
  • Chinese five-spice to taste

steps

  1. coat the bottom of a large pot with olive oil, and put over medium-low heat
  2. when the oil is hot, throw in the onion and carrots. Stir often.
  3. when the onions are translucent, add the wine
  4. let the wine cook down a bit, continuing to stir
  5. add the squash mush, keep stirring
  6. add the milk, and increase the heat. Keep stirring
  7. add the butter
  8. taste, and add ginger, five-spice, balsamic vinegar, salt, and black pepper as you see fit. To my best recollection, I used maybe 1-2 tsp of salt, a few grinds of pepper, a few shakes of the ginger powder, a small pinch of the five-spice, and two or three splashes of the vinegar

Here are some improvements I think I’ll try next time:

  • blend it, after the milk is incorporated. That was actually my intention, until I saw how nicely everything came together with just stirring. In the bowl, it turned out not quite as smooth as it looked. Blending should improve the texture.
  • I would have included chopped celery with the onion and carrots (a proper mirepoix) if I had celery on hand
  • use fresh or dried ginger, instead of the powdered stuff
  • it seems like maybe this should have garlic.

Introduction to the Culinary Arts at the Workhouse: Week 2

I’m enrolled in a 6-week cooking class at the Lorton Workhouse. Our second class was Monday, 1/6.

Class began with a discussion of the five mother sauces, and throughout the night we made two of them (hollandaise and a vinaigrette. We made a béchamel last week.), and some veggie chopping and other prep-work.

The night’s menu was:

  • Warm Bacon and Spinach Salad
  • Caramelized Onion Risotto with Roasted Tomatoes
  • Savory French Brussels Sprouts
  • Baked Salmon with Tarragon Hollandaise
  • A “cake” made of layers of crêpe and an amaretto crème anglaise, topped with a chocolate ganache (with more amaretto)

I may not have actually spent two hours stirring risotto, but it sure felt like it. Someone had to do it, and I was in the right (or wrong) place at the right time. Despite the arm-exertion, it was useful to see how a risotto builds up, and get a basic sense for when to add more liquid to the dish.

Making a crêpe was a good confidence-builder: I’ve tried it at home and failed miserably, ending up with something I’ll call “scrambled crêpes”. I tried it a home the next night, and promptly… scrambled some more. After about three or four failures, some tweaking of temperature levels and amounts of butter, and one pan switch, I made about a half dozen acceptable-looking crêpes. Score!


Introduction to the Culinary Arts at the Workhouse: Week 1

I’m enrolled in a 6-week cooking class at the Lorton Workhouse. Our first class was Monday.

I expected the classroom to be a temporary space. The workhouse map shows a “culinary arts center” that isn’t yet complete, so I was prepared for this to be a makeshift operation.

And boy, is it makeshift:  less a kitchen or classroom than a bunch of folding tables and portable gas and electric burners in the lobby area of one of the Workhouse buildings. The pantry and most of the equipment are crated and carried back and forth between class and the chef’s home.

I’ll admit this was off-putting at first, but Chef Kathleen Linton does a great job making it all work. I got more out of the 30 or so minutes we spent talking about knife skills and specific cuts than I did from Culinaerie’s 3-hour “knife skills” course, mostly because of the personal attention: In a five person class, you get a lot more interaction with the instructor.

Beyond the knife skills, it was good to see how a roux is supposed to come together, how to moderate the thickening it provides, how to produce a béchamel, how to that turn it into a pretty delicious cheese sauce, and some tips for shopping for and cooking with olive oil. Most of this stuff comes down to trusting the evidence of your senses– but seeing it done (or having someone knowledgeable help) is a big deal. It’s like calibrating those senses so you can trust them.

The food we produced was great. Our first menu was:

  • Garden Vegetable Soup
  • Cheese Scalloped Potatoes
  • Ratatouille
  • Pan Fried Chicken and Spinach
  • Apple Tarts

I’m not sure it’ll happen in the next six weeks, but (with the help of a corporate donor) a real teaching kitchen is apparently coming soon– it’s exciting that the Workhouse folks are investing in the cooking program.

Next Week: More sauces!

#foodfail: Peanut Butter Cookies

After I had a few Ratio-driven successes under by belt, I had an idea: The Maximum Peanut Butter Cookie.

Ruhlman describes the “essential” cookie as 1 part sugar, 2 parts fat, and 3 parts flour. I’ve made this, and it’s OK.  Somehow, I got to wondering how it could be adapted to a peanut butter cookie. I stayed up late and actually did the math: I came up with a recipe where peanut butter provided all of the fat and most of the sugar. I made no other changes and added no other ingredients.

I thought this was brilliant. I gave it a name (see above). It was a few days later that I actually got around to trying this crazy thing, but that night I went to sleep convinced of my own genius.

The “cookie” it produced was awful. Imagine a lump of peanut butter in your mouth, with flour (making it drier) and being baked (even drier). You’re thirsty just thinking about that, right?

If I try this again, I think I’ll use a liquid for the additional sweetener (honey, perhaps), lower the amount of flour (to account for all the other “stuff” in a serving of peanut butter that is neither fat nor sugar: the peanut solids and whatever else), and probably add some eggs to soften and leaven it a bit.

 

Basics

I’ve been absorbing a lot of information about food in the last year(and actually cooking too!), but there a lot of basic things I have yet to try or learn.

I’ve read On Food and Cooking, but (until last week) had never made mashed potatoes. I’ve read Ideas in Food, but had never made gravy– and gravy is perhaps the best “idea in food” ever.

Preparing a traditional Thanksgiving dinner was educational, then. Here’s the menu we ended up with (including what Patty & I made, and things brought by family) :

  • Turkey
  • Stuffing
  • Mashed potatoes
  • Brussels sprouts
  • Strawberry Salad
  • Gravy (!)
  • Cranberry applesauce
  • Sweet potatoes
  • Green beans
  • Pumpkin Pie
  • Chocolate-chip pumpkin bread

There were no major disasters, but I’m already plotting The Next Turkey. I would have liked the bird to have come out with crispier skin– I’m not sure whether to blame the electric roaster, the brining process, both, or neither. I was happy that I took Ruhlman’s advice to make turkey stock ahead of time. Otherwise there would have been no gravy at all– there were no juices in the pan after the turkey was done.

#foodfail weird green “orange” sauce

The train of thought was:

  1. This tuna should have some kind of sauce. What kind of sauce can I make?
  2. We have a bunch of clementines. Maybe I could make some sort of orange sauce
  3. This sauce– it doesn’t taste quite as… orangey as I want.
  4. Hey, we have some orange liqueur! That might do it
  5. (digs around, produces a bottle of blue curcao)
  6. (Pours some in, only realizing the chromatic consequences of this decision when it’s too late to back down)
  7. Oh lord, what have I created?

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pre-Thanksgiving

Patty and I have volunteered to host Thanksgiving dinner this year. She’s a vegetarian, and I’ve never cooked a turkey before– so this should be an adventure. I’m in charge of turkey and stuffing.

The first result when I googled “turkey brine” is this complete recipe from Alton Brown, and honestly it sounds really good, so I’m going to attempt it. My 5 gallon bucket is on it’s way, and tomorrow I’m cooking up a batch of vegetable stock.

We’re already using an electric roaster for the bird (it’s been in the family for years, I’m not sure who actually owns it), and it makes sense to keep the oven free for other dishes. Thus, I’m going to try this slow-cooker method for stuffing. The recipe calls for chicken stock (which Patty won’t eat), so I’ll be substituting more of vegetable stock.

Recent cooking

Since The Great Poundcake Débâcle of 2011, we’ve made:

  • Bread– other than being baked in  a loaf pan instead of the dutch oven, there isn’t much to report. It sure is nice that having fresh baked bread at home is nothing special anymore. This is progress.
  • Yeast Waffles ala Cooking for Geeks– quite tasty.
  • Beet Rosti a staple at our house. It didn’t quite come together this time, though: it was more like a beet hash than a beet pancake. I have theories.
  • Pizza– Wasn’t as crispy as I’d like, but still OK. Next time: pizza stone.
  • Croutons– hell yeah I made croutons. This is leftover bread from the batch above.

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verdict

On the pound cake– generally fine. The glaze was perhaps too tart and/or sweet (Patty thinks the former, me the latter), which made the end pieces (glazed on five of six sides) basically unbearable. I had an inside piece this morning, which was much nicer.

The cake itself tasted… like pound cake. Score!

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Lessons learned

I think the glaze was basically sound, I just used too much of it. It also absorbed into the cake more than I wanted. I wonder how you fix that?